Monday, 26 February 2007
Wednesday, 21 February 2007
Disgusted of River Valley Road writes...

One of the things that I do object to here is the censorship of the media. It makes for very dull reading. Headlines such as 'Everything is fine' and 'Greatness is up 14%' are hardly insightful journalism. Thankfully the Internet is almost totally uncensored here, I believe that a few adult sites may be blocked but have yet to put this to the test. I did meet a guy at some drinks whose company provides porn monitoring software (it's the pink pixels %, so stick to the Asian babes sites guys...) but that's as far as it goes. Apparently Singaporeans read a lot of blogs for the 'truth', but you still can't go and see a play yet that is critical of the administration.
We shipped my DVD collection out here. We were warned that DVDs can be subject to censorship and given the themes of my collection (death, drugs, destruction and violence - and that's just Scarface) I was pretty worried. Especially as the customs people charge you to watch the DVDs (much like James making his living), 3 USD an hour, then additionally more to make cuts. Though how you edit a DVD has never been satisfactorily explained to me. The one film in the collection that I wasn't worried about at the time was 'Zoolander', until I read that the film had been banned in Singapore. It appears this was only 'unbanned' last year. Read more at the link. Anyway all films came through unscathed which has to be indicative of Singapore lightening up a little or perhaps the customs guys were feeling expansive. Nethertheless I understand that 'Borat' has been subject to 20 minutes of cutting before getting an over 21's cinema release. I have a copy from Thailand so I'm not sure what state that is in. Even 'Pans Labyrinth' had a noticeable cut where the background music stopped suddenly, I have no idea what was removed.
Anyway, this is my letter:
Catching up on my reading, I read with some sadness the article in Today (February 7th) entitled 'Whale on our plates - how?' where the writer questioned how a restaurant could serve a protected species on their menu. A recent walk through Chinatown to enjoy the preparations for Chinese New Year showed a large increase in the numbers of shops and stalls offering sharks fin and sharks fin soup. It seems at odds that people are prepared to contribute to the extinction of one species through over consumption and yet leap to the defence of another.
Let's look at some of the facts. Currently more than 100 million sharks are taken from the seas each year - a rate at which they simply cannot survive. They cannot survive this onslaught because, unlike many other fish, most large sharks don't reach sexual maturity until seven years old or even later, and then only give birth to a few pups each year. Right now, they are simply being caught and killed faster than they can reproduce. Sharks are wild animals as are most fish we eat and are not farmed in a sustainable way. For a long time we have regarded the ocean as an unending source of food, but this has now been proven to be erroneous with the collapse of commercial fish stocks due to greedy overfishing. It is unknown how long the shark population will survive. Currently there are 18 species of shark on the Endangered Red List. Last year there were 11 species. With fishing techniques becoming more sophisticated and the demand for fins and meat at unprecedented levels, some species are rapidly moving towards extinction. By 2017 it is anticipated that 20 species of shark could become extinct due to hunting, indiscriminate fishing techniques and, ultimately, man's greed. That's only 10 years.
Todays article (February 15th) 'Chinese New Year feasting sends price of fish soaring' only highlights the plight of fish stocks in general. Demand rises due to Chinese New Year, but catches are less and less each year. Supply is diminishing so prices go up. Who cannot honestly say that the size of the fish they are served in restaurants has been steadily decreasing within their memory?
At the end of the day, it is our responsibility to safeguard the environment for our children. Do you want to be personally responsible for contributing to the extinction of a species? One day you may have to tell your children that we used to have sharks, but now there are non left for them to see for themselves. Paradoxically, the extremely high levels of mercury in shark fin can leave a man infertile so perhaps if we continue to eat sharks fin we won't be having children to tell this to anyway.
The Chinese character for shark contains a warning. It includes the two sub-characters 'less' and 'fish'. Time is running out for the sharks and only we can make a difference. Think about what you choose to eat over Chinese New Year and beyond.
Yours faithfully
Matt Tench
Tuesday, 6 February 2007
Summer's here already!
Before I left the UK I bought an umbrella from James Smith and Sons and it's a magnificent beast. A Malacca cane handled 10 rib monster, that defeats even the hardiest monsoon downpour with impunity. The only problem is that the rain hits so hard that you can't be protected from the rebound, and your ankles get soaked. I've actually had to wade across a stream that was once Cairnhill Road when the rain got especially heavy. So with all the rain, you'd think it was pretty miserable right? Not so. It seems that if the rain is nice and warm, it doesn't get to you like the rain in the UK that penetrates your warmest jacket and chills you to the bone. You can still go out when it rains and wear shorts and flip flops.
An ode to the umbrella. And why you should own at least 4.
Video of Singaporean Monsoon
It's odd though because when it's sunny every day I feel no desire to go and smother myself in SPF and hit the loungers, because you know it'll be sunny tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day. The other thing is, being equatorial the sun here is FIERCE when it comes out. In fact, when I have had opportunities to sun bathe (like Thailand over Xmas/ NY) I've tended to stay in the shade as much as possible, just because UV ages your skin terribly. You become conscious of your hands being in the sun and start using sunscreen on them. You do attract a tan just by being outside skating or wakeboarding etc but even my moisturiser is SPF20. However, it's fair to say that with the amount of sunshine you get your fair dose of vitamin D and vitamin happy. Maybe that's why Singaporeans are for the most part, a pretty happy bunch.
Monday, 5 February 2007
Torture Garden eat your heart out...
Now getting from one side of Singapore city to the other is usually fraught with its own inherent difficulties. Slow moving, 4 wide groups of Singaporean aunties causing great log jams of humanity in their wake on Orchard, louche black clad teenagers lounging around on any and every available staircase and the global phenomenon of the number of available taxis being inversely proportional to the amount of rain.
So you'd have to try quite hard to make the journey more difficult. So you do is you don what is basically a giant pyramid shaped mobile milk altar called a kavadi.

This weighs about 30kg. And then you fix it to yourself with some very sharp spokes that pierce your flesh.

Get some assorted friends and relatives to fasten some limes to your back in ordered rows. Not with double sided sticky tape Blue Peter fans. With needle sharp hooks. And then, just to make sure that you are really focussed on what you're doing, get your mouth pierced from side to side with a small spear, then from top to bottom via your tongue with another one.

These are the basics. Kavadis are limited to 2m in height in order to prevent one upmanship, but you can then pimp your kavadi out with as much bling as you can afford or carry, peacock feathers are very in vogue, as are gold chains connecting your hooks to the kavadi and assorted facial fruit kebabs.

The staging area in the temple for the kavadi bearers is an amazing riot of chanting, drums and music, as well as a heady mix of smells. The bearers periodically practise spinning ever faster, creating the image of a spinning top, although not one that you'd want to get too close to. I did see a 'First Aid Post' sign, but seriously, what kind of injury would you have to take there to get any attention? 'I'm sorry sir, but your papercut will have to wait until I've seen these 200 other gentlemen with citrus fruits impaled in their backs.'
Click to see VIDEO 1
Every so often a crowd will congregate around a kavadi and owner, jamming video cameras and cameraphones into the supplicants face in order to catch the moment of the skewering. Usually a male (though I did see one woman with a skewer), his friends all pack in around him, chanting 'Vel, Vel' (spear, spear), enhancing the trance that the devotee has put himself into. He shows no pain and amazingly not one drop of blood is drawn from any of the piercings, no matter how large the implement used.
Click to see VIDEO 2
The kavadis then proceed out of the temple, followed by their supporters and into Singaporean airspace, under the watchful eye of the authorities. Here, drums and musical instruments are prohibited and the kavadis are herded into a fenced off area down the side of Serangoon Road. Cheekily from time to time, the supporters will break into some chanting and singing to gee up their bearer, who more often than not has been forced to stop his already arduous journey by the traffic lights changing to red, well this is Singapore and the car reigns supreme. Some scaling back of the mortification means that in Singapore at least devotees are not allowed to pull the spike/ chariot kavadis by themselves, instead their supporters pull them but also pull back on the hooks to offer some resistance for them.
Lord Murugan: 'Hi, I'm just calling to check that you're in sufficient pain and the milk is on the way, it's just that I have Vishnu coming round for tea at 7pm and I'm a bit low on milk at the moment what with Ganesh drinking it all'
Devotee: 'Mmmm mmmm mmmm'
You can take a look at the rest of the pictures here on Fotki and VIDEO 3 (procession) and VIDEO 4 (getting ready). Another day in Singapore, highlighting what the city does best, never failing to amaze and surprise.
Wednesday, 31 January 2007
Monday, 29 January 2007
A conversation (A play from Singapore)
PAN SHOT THROUGH WINDOW to INT. HOTEL ROOM IN THAILAND - NIGHT. Outside it is just starting to rain. A couple, Max and Beatrix are discussing their holiday plans. She is flicking through some travel magazines. He is getting ready to go out.
BEATRIX
What's that temple called? Anchor something?
MAX
Wat
BEATRIX
You know, the one in Cambodia. Anchor?
MAX
Wat
BEATRIX
FRUSTRATION STARTS TO RISE IN HER VOICE
The temple. In Cambodia. ANCHOR SOMETHING!
MAX
Wat
BEATRIX
NOW EXASPERATED, SPEAKING AS IF TO A CHILD
What is the name of the temple in Cambodia that is called Anchor
something?
MAX
SHOWING EXTREME PATIENCE
Angkor Wat
BEATRIX
The temple....
REALISATION DAWNS
Ohhhhhhhhh
***The End***
Friday, 26 January 2007
If you're bored of this try...
Thursday, 25 January 2007
It's good to talk

Wednesday, 24 January 2007
Musings on Muse
with Muse in the UK but there seems to be a dearth or 'well known' rock n roll acts making their way out here so I thought it would be good to support it. Well the other 'big names' hitting these shores are El Divo and Cliff Richard (I assume before Wimbledon starts and he's required to entertain Centre Court).
The performance itself wasn't bad at all, although I suspect it would have been the same if there had been 10 or 100,000 people there (and those going to see them at Wembley will be able to test that theory out - at least we could see them in detail with only 6,000 people there). There was very little crowd connection apart from one or two 'hello Singapores' through the set. The gig was also lacking a support act, just a DJ which at $110 a ticket seemed pretty mean spirited, especially as Singapore has a thriving indie scene any one of whom would have bitten their mothers arms off to play for free. And of course, there weren't enough toilets. At this point I have to plug Bone Table (from Hong Kong) who Tom Kitten describes as sort of like the bastard son of Thurston Moore and Nico.
One plus of the gig was that even Beatrice was one of the taller people at the concert and as for me well, I had a virtually unrestricted view of the gig. I say 'virtually', because it was hard to see around the sea of cameraphones being held up constantly. Now I've seen this in the UK, but never on this scale. It became easier to watch the gig on one of the phones around me and select a view from the field of little TV monitors.
Final reminder, we're hoping to make it back for Glastonbury, so if you want to see us this year UK side, get your wellies in now while the price is still low.
Friday, 19 January 2007
Turkey after all
We started off by arriving in Patong in Phuket province. Patong is really the Costa del Thailand, it's brash and touristy and the primary business is prostitution and vacationing, often combined. The girls are centred on 'beer bars' often little more that a set of stools round a bar, often 30 or 40 crammed into a tiny side street, though some are monolithic themed affairs with many phallic statues adorning their facades and interior.
However much you try not to let it, you can't help but shudder at the, and let's be quite frank here, guys who even their mother might have trouble loving for their appearance pawing at the Thai girls who are quite content to put up with it in the name of revenue.
The main reason for going to Thailand was to catch some diving at the Similan Islands and avoid Xmas. We'd scoured the Internet to find a boat departing on the 24th December, with West Coast Divers. We transferred up to the boat the next day with tour leader Milton (about the most laid back person you might ever meet) and the majority of the rest of the group. The boat isn't the most luxurious that I'd ever been on, but as we were the last to book, we got the worst cabins, below deck, by the engine room, and so small that you actually had no floor space, just 2 single bunks, slightly staggered. Beatrice threw an epic strop, but there was no way of changing them and we had to deal with it. Liveaboards in the area are generally quite small, but the team on board were pretty clued up and the cooks managed to produce an amazing variety and quantity of food from the tiny kitchen, including a full roast turkey and works on Xmas day itself. For my part, I'd smuggled a small Xmas tree from Singapore in my rucksack, which we zip tied to one of the tables on the main deck. You can see Mod, our dive guide looking at it in awe and wonder on the pics.
The diving ranged from downright excellent (Richeliu Rock) to a bit average in places. Certainly overall I'd expected a lot more from the Similans based on their reputation. We also had to endure some supposedly qualified (50+ dives) divers highly overweighted and kicking the crap out of the reef. To be fair the dive guides did their best to keep them away from the reef after dive 1, and they always ended up finishing 15 minutes before the rest of our group due to air consumption. We saw a lot of boats at any one site, so you can imagine the impact this has to be having on the reef. Sigh.
Anyway, lots of marine life, we had one dive spending a lot of time with a huge Manta ray, sadly my camera had fogged and all the video looks like London on a foggy February day. Ditto the pics. We also got to see a few seahorses, which Bea was very excited about and my favourites, octopus and cuttlefish kept popping up from time to time. If you really like fish pics (and I guess there are a few divers reading), there is a second album on Fotki.
The pic of the turtle and the Angel fish represented an amazing standoff between the two, as the Angel fish pestered the turtle as it broke up the coral in order to get some food of its own.
The second half of our stay was at Kata Beach. Lonely Planet had sent us there as it was full of 'bohemian, young travellers'. Whoever researched the guide wants to do more checking, as it seemed to be exclusively full of Scandanavian families, who all went to bed at about 10pm. We casted around the resort trying to find somewhere with a bit of atmosphere but with limited luck. Initially we walked around, but soon decided to hire a scooter to get around. There is a nice picture of me on the scooter with my 'purple helmet'. Just gay enough Mr Brown...
If you ever go to Kata, I can thorougly recommend a trip to the Dino Park Mini golf. It's both educational AND fun. It's like info-tainment. I also got to ride on a Ankylosaurus and you can't say that about every holiday. Bea also won the round by 2 strokes, but then she did used to play golf seriously. Or so I tell myself. Hole 17 was fiendishly hard.
Did a spot more diving, this time with Sea Bees. The guide they gave us was certafiably useless and pretty much wrecked the dives we did. He couldn't tell one end of a wreck from the other (literally) and basically disregared all agreed plans when in the water. Beatrice was super unhappy again, but she has always belived that the guide knows everything. We've made up a new sign for underwater that represents 'this guy is an idiot, let's do our own thing'.
We'd found the one decent bar in the area, called Nakonnai, an odd place with an art gallery as part of the bar and a house band who just loved playing music. We were tempted to go there for NYE but we'd been diving and someone had told us about a decent club in Patong that wasn't totally rammed with hookers and played decent music so we decided to give that a go. Owing to a miscommunication between myself and Beatrice we ended up with about 1000 BHT left to last us the whole night and get us back to Kata. We bought some cheap beers from the 7-11 and walked around the town which as it was NY had attracted a lot of people out and it diluted the bawdy atmosphere somewhat making it quite enjoyable. For me the highlight was going to the beach where people were selling fire ballons and setting them all adrift until there were hundreds of them. Firecrackers were being set off and rockets, and vendors were selling silly string so you could spray the surrounding area with CFCs and toxic chemicals. Of course we couldn't afford any of this, and we had to leave the beach before mid-night to get into the club which would have cost us 500 BHT each otherwise afterwards... Even so, we still had to share beers, though we did come out with enough to buy our own fire balloon and get a taxi home and the net result was not having a hangover the next day.
The rest of the trip we spent having massages and spa treatments, going to the beach outside all the nice hotels and sneaking in to use their pools and sunloungers until sadly it was time to take the scooter back and go to the airport. Luckliy we'd bought Borat on pirate DVD for £1.05 to watch on the plane, so it wasn't all so bad. Jagsamesh!
You can see a movie from the beach here. It's magical. Better than attack ships on fire off the shores of Orion.
Wednesday, 17 January 2007
If you're bored of this...
Friday, 12 January 2007
All clear, no sharks.
Thursday, 11 January 2007
Another day, another scar
Amazingly in the papers, Singaporeans have been moaning about the state of their health service, having in some cases to wait for up to an hour at a walk in clinic to be seen. Now anyone who has been to A&E in the UK lately will know how laughable this is. It transpires that selfish doctors here actually spend time with their patients to find out what it wrong with them. In one case, peoples appointments were delayed by an hour due to a cardiac arrest and subsequent stabilisation. And people still complained.
Now I went through the private health service. Above several shopping malls are literally floors and floors of private clinics like a beehive of medical practise - everything from cardiology to plastic surgery. Imagine nipping into Paragon for some new Chanel, finding the last pencil skirt in the sale, and it being a little too small. No problem, just buy that skirt and nip upstairs for some lipo...
Joking aside, I had an appointment with a GP Monday morning, who referred me to a dermatologist in the same building and I got an appointment in the next 10 minutes, who then referred me to a surgeon. I could in theory have had the procedure the same day, except for a mistake on the name of my insurance group so I had to wait til 4pm the same day to be seen in another clinic. The most painful bit (well nearly) was dealing with the call centre who administer the scheme, who have thoughtfully limited being on hold to 10 minutes 'for your convinience' then cut you off. And it's actually 5 mins, cos I timed it. Into surgery on Wednesday (the clinic has a mini theatre attached). Seriously, even Bupa would struggle to compete. Oddly though, both my GP and surgery appointment were in clinics that were predominately plastic surgery, so I was lucky that I didn't come out with a 36DD cup as well. Who knows, maybe the lipoma gets turned into an all natural enhancement package?
It also transpires that I seem to have a bad reaction to local anaesthetic, which I'd experienced before when I had my last tattoo. At the time I'd put it down to having my lower spinal area perforated, but it seems that whatever is in the cream they use is also in the local they gave me. Anyway, it's like a rather nasty trip, not helped by waking up and seeing two totally unfamiliar Asian faces staring down at me in a room that I didn't recognise. And like last time, it happened twice before my body adjusted. Not nice. Understandably, they were reluctant to give me any more anaesthesia even when the procedure went into 'un-numbed' territory. They also used some 'frickin laser beams' on me and ouch they hurt (and people DON'T smell like pork when they're cooked which dispels a popular conception).
Anyway, hopefully alright now, lab tests pending etc.
Thursday, 21 December 2006
Flying Wizards of Satan
Click to read the story
Tuesday, 19 December 2006
Nothing stops the Shopping
Anyway, as if any further proof was required that Singaporeans are shopping addicts, yesterday Tangs department store roof caught fire. But no-one felt the need to actually leave the store and stop shopping. People were saying things like 'we felt perfectly safe, there was an official announcement to keep us all informed'. What like 'Will the gentleman on fire in the underwear section kindly proceed to level 2 where he can wait in line to be extinguished'. It's an interesting insight into the local psyche.
This from the Today newspaper "There was no panic," said the civil servant, who was part of a crowd who gathered to watch the smoky scene outside Orchard MRT station. "When the fire was doused, in quick fashion, everyone clapped."
Thursday, 7 December 2006
Slumming it..
Our time in the serviced apartments is coming to an end, so I thought I'd add a few pictures of where we've been living for the last few weeks.
Monday, 27 November 2006
Sea to Singapore


Once the flat was all packed up, it looked very odd, like something was missing, but you couldn't quite put your finger on it. The other galling thing was that prior to letting it, I finally got round to all the DIY and upgrading chores I hadn't done in 5 years, and it looked quite amazing!

We had the packers in a week ahead of our departure, which was fine for Beatrice who was off to France for the week, but I ended up surviving on sandwiches and things that you could cut up with plastic cutlery as everything had gone into the container. It all fitted easily into the container, which is odd because the flat always felt quite full. I guess the answer is to just rent a container to live in.

(Saying goodbye to the flat and the park)
For me one of the hardest things was having to give away my world famous alcohol collection, literally tens of bottles of premium spirits collected over time. Singapore duty on alcohol is very expensive and you can only bring 1 litre each. Note that all guests will be required to bring a bottle with them so we can replenish stocks. In a way, saying goodbye to the spirits was like saying goodbye to fond memories, as each one had a special experience associated with it. The two I chose to keep? The Ardbeg 19 year old and the Hendricks gin (website well worth browsing) survived the cull.
Many thanks to all of you who showed up and making it to our final leaving party (pics link). I totally lost my voice afterwards from all the talking. You are all invited to stay if we have a guest room. Everyone who promised to come and then piked, you can all come too, but you have to sleep on the floor...
We're hoping to make it back for Glastonbury 2007 (assuming we can get tickets) so if you want to see us next year, either start looking for flights or buy your wellies now while they're cheap.
Friday, 24 November 2006
Stop the world, I want to get off...
Let's take London. A latitude of 51 degrees, Cosine of 0.629. Moving at a mere speed of 655 mph. And who said that life in London was life in the fast lane. No wonder I feel bloody giddy. Does this mean that I'm getting older quicker or slower than I was before? Welcome to Singapore...
If you want to see where I currently am click here. That's me, the tall white tower in the middle. You can see our pool. If the satellite is overhead, I might be waving at you.
Dear Nephew Gobo...
Greetings from Singapore. Things are a bit more settled now and it's about time I kept you up to date with what's going on. A lot of people said to me before I went 'are you going to start a blog' and I laughed at them and said no chance, but that was mostly becaue I didn't really get it (I'm too old to learn all this web 2.0 stuff). Having looked into it, it seems like the right way to go, and I'm reasonably confident I can get it all to work as I want it. Think of it like a regular postcard if it helps. Which leads me to unveil:
Great Uncle Travelling Matt.
Now pedants will say that it should be 'Uncle Travelling Matt' but that had already gone (and he's taken it all very seriously, see http://www.uncletravellingmatt.com/), so I skipped a generation. The rest of you won't of course get what I'm talking about. You can learn about it here.
http://muppet.wikia.com/wiki/Uncle_Traveling_Matt
Of course it will be great to get emails from you telling me what you're all up to, it will be a strange world where we all trade blogs like photocopied circulars at Christmas (this year Jake learnt to play the bassoon and Miranda drowned Aunty Clarissas sainted budgerigar. How we all laughed...Anyway, Happy Holidays etc).
How it works:
Web: http://greatuncletravellingmatt.blogspot.com/
Email: You can subscribe at the website to receive updates via email. Email will come from Great Uncle Travelling Matt (rssfwd@rssfwd.com), please make this a known sender to avoid it landing in junk mail.
News: for those of you using Newsreaders:
* RSS: http://feeds.feedburner.com/GreatUncleTravellingMatt
* Atom: http://greatuncletravellingmatt.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default
I'm not about to post my contact details, you should have got them from the mail, but if you've lost them, just drop me a line.
Hope to hear from you all soon!
Matt